The choice and quality of domestic pots and pans has greatly improved over the last 10-15 years, though from a chef’s point of view there is still room for improvement..
Lots of saucepans suffer from various design shortcomings, either because of cost or the designers didn’t ask any chefs their opinion. Even manufacturers that have it right ....can then get it wrong. Recently I bought a wonderful Circulon frying pan for my sister who is a great cook. The frying pan is 30 cm, which is bigger than average thus you can cook 4 portions of most foods in one go. Unfortunately Circulon are now selling a newer range called Circulon 2 that has plastic handles rather than the all metal handles on the version I bought. I don’t know whether the pans with all metal handles will be phased out by Circulon but I hope not.
Buying Tips
Steer clear of pans that have screw on wooden or plastic handles. They always come loose and eventually the wood or plastic burns or cracks and falls off. Buy all metal handles and use a tea towel. Not only will the pan last longer but you can transfer it to the oven rather than move the food onto something else (less washing up!) Certain brands now say their plastic type handles are oven safe up to 180 C, but what's the point since many recipes call for higher temperatures? Heavy duty metal handles that are riveted to the pan will last the longest.
Try to buy pans that have heavy bottoms, which lessens the chances of burning the food. Lots of modern saucepans have sandwich bases, which are layers of aluminum, stainless steel and copper for better heat conduction.
Stainless Steel
The upside of stainless steel is it’s hardwearing and easy to keep clean. The down side is that some handles that are welded on can fall off. So when browsing the domestic saucepans I tend to go for handles that are riveted on. Of course you could buy professional stainless steel pans made by Bourgeat who use an unbreakable annular weld. Either way try to make sure you buy 18/10 gauge stainless steel which is the heaviest gauge.
Non-stick
Generally speaking the longevity of non-stick saucepans/frying pans has improved on the more expensive items. Using a non-stick pan is very healthy because you can cut down the amount of oil or butter that is used. To increase the life of your non-stick surfaces use a rubber or soft plastic spatula to stir with.
Anodised Aluminium
Less porous than ordinary aluminium and pans made from this type of metal conduct heat more evenly. My favourite anodised sauté pan made by Calphalon is still going strong after 15 years, so expensive can work out cheap in the long run.
Copper
Technology has made copper pots & pans obsolete. Years ago chefs would make copper pans their first choice because they are number 1 when it comes to heat conduction. Traditionally the pans would be lined with tin, which wears out after several years and then the pans need re- tinning. In the last 10 years a more modern version lined with stainless steel has appeared in shops but unless you are planning on hanging your pans on display I wouldn’t bother with them.
Cast iron
Not very popular because of their weight, but they have 3 plus points. They will last a lifetime, which is no small feat in this day and age. If used just for frying they develop a non-stick surface, which is as good as any non-stick surface you can buy. Thirdly, being cast all in one piece the handles can’t fall off.
Traditional non-stick
You can create your own non-stick surface on black steel, anodised aluminium and cast iron frying pans by “seasoning the pan” and below I will explain how you can do this. Keep in mind that when you add a sauce to a seasoned pan you are destroying the non-stick surface so its better to keep seasoned pans for just frying. When washing a seasoned pan up, don’t scrub it, use a soft dishcloth. Don’t leave them in soak because this will also have deleterious effect on the seasoning. If you have to scrub them to get the frying pan clean then it is time to re-season them.
Seasoning
1. Add enough salt to your pan to give a 4-5 mm (1/4 “) depth.
2. Heat on a medium high heat for 15 minutes, without moving the salt around.
3. Tip out the salt into the sink and allow to cool slightly before wiping with a clean thick tea towel.
4. Pour enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom of the pan, and then swill the oil around so as to make sure the inner sides of the pan have been covered too.
5. Cook on a low heat for 30 minutes or more. If the oil begins to smoke you have the heat up too high.
6. Allow to cool then pour out the oil out and rub dry with a paper towel.
*It may take several attempts before the seasoned pan builds up a non- stick surface.
Do you want to know were I buy my equipment from?
Lots of enthusiastic cooks buy good quality equipment at retail high street stores, or more recently online. I don’t buy from these normal retail channels because they are mostly overpriced. I buy from professional catering supply companies like Russums who are located in Rotherham but also have a web site. You can also occasionally get a bargain at food shows but only if you know the real retail price and if that original price was inflated or not?
The very best make of professional saucepans in the world (though it pains me lol to say it) are made by a French company called Bourgeat and when ever I buy equipment for a restaurant that is my number one choice, they will genuinely last you for 20 years and can be used on all heat sources including induction.
Lifting the Lid On Pots and Pans © Kevin Ashton 2004













